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Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Apparel Prduction Cost Sheet Analysis



A cost sheet makes the job of garment sample costing easier and faster. If you use a cost sheet there is a less chance to miss any particular costing heads when you are in hurry. Many times it is needed to know how we reach to the final FOB. A well designed cost sheet will help you trace all details of costing. Cost sheet will also gives cost break up for future reference.

Following one is a sample cost sheet. This sheet is filled with indicative numbers.
COST SHEET
Product
Women  T-Shirt
Yarn dyed feeder stripes
Style no:
XYZ
Country
USA
Buyer:
ABC
Fabric
Viscose jersey
GSM/width
150/34-31"



Particulars
Details
Amount (INR)
Fabric Costing 

Yarn Price as per supplier list
Per Kg 
250.00 

Knitting charges
 Per Kg
25.00

Greige Fabric Cost
Per Kg 
275.00

Average dyeing cost

20.00

Weight loss on dyed fabric:
9.00%
26.55

Fleece brushing /Peaching
-
-

Loss Due To Printing
-
-

Sub total

321.55

Interest on yarn prices:/margin
10.00%
32.16
 Dyed Fabric Cost: 
353.71

Garment costing 

Avg.  Fabric Consumption (gram)
210.00
74.28





CMTP Charges



Stitching:
20.00




 39.50 

Cutting:
2.50

Finishing:
6.00

Packaging:
4.50

Embellishment
2.50

Trims
4.00





Sub Total

113.78

Overhead cost
12.00%
13.65

Margin (after overhead)
20.00%
25.49

Ratio/Rejection
4.00%
5.10

Charges for On Board

1.00
 Total price of a apparel
159.02

Fob prices: US$
Rate: 49.00
 $     3.25

Internal Price FOB

 $     3.25

Further details of Packing, Trims and Embellishment costing have been shown in the following table. The following checklist indicative one, you can add more on particulars according to your style requirement.
Trims 
Particulars
Consumption
Rate
Amount (INR)
M/label
 1

1.00
W/care
 1

0.50
Tag
 N/a

0.00
Thread
 10 mtr

2.00
Fusing
 N/a

0.00
Twill tape
 N/a

0.00
Mobilon tape
 30 cm

0.50
Zipper
 N/a

0.00
Patch label
 N/a

0.00
Button
 N/a

0.00

 Total

4.00
Packing materials
Tissue
N/a 

0.00
Board
 N/a

0.00
Hanger
 N/a

0.00
H/tag
 1

1.50
Poly bag
 1

1.50
Blister
 N/1

0.00
Carton
 1/10

1.50
Other


0.00
Label logo


0.00

 Total

4.50




Embellishment 
Embroidery/appliqué
 N/a

0.00
Printing
 N/a

0.00
Rhin stud
 N/a

0.00
Lace
N/a

0.00
Rib
N/a

0.00
Collar
 N/a

0.00
Crochet lace
 N/a

0.00
Enzyme wash
N/a

0.00
Dori


2.50

Total

2.50

Sample Cost sheet (Excel Sheet

Blank Cost Sheet Form Apparel Manufacturing Manufacturing, by Carla Buchanan


Cost Sheet
Date:
Style#:
 Allowance: 1/8”
Description:
Season: Spring
Colors:
Size range:
Selling price:

Material
Yards
Price
Amount

Front/back
self







lining



Interfacing




Trimming
quantity
price
amount













labels, poly bags, hangtags, hangers, size tickets




















Labor




cutting



sewing



grading



marking




total cost

mark up

wholesale cost


It was just an example of Cost Sheet, the analysis part is represented below:


Garment Costing

Variable Function:
a.     Fabric Consumption
b.     Fabric Cost
c.      Accessories Cost
d.     Print/Embroidery/Washing Charge
e.      C.M.
f.       Freight (C & F)
g.     Payment mode (at sight deferred payment 60days or 90 days or 120 days, TT, Sales Contract)

Fabric Consumption:

1. Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =


 




L (Length) = HPS (High Point Shoulder)
                  = CBL (Central Back length)
                  = BL (Body Length)
S.L          = Sleeve Length

Allowance-01: This is actually sewing allowance in lengthwise of a garment.

For T-Shirt,    Bottom Hem     = 2.5-3 Cm
                             Shoulder Join= 1.5 Cm
                             Sleeve  Hem         = 2.5- 3 Cm
                             Sleeve Join = 1.5 cm
                             Sub Total   = 9 cm
                              In Hand         = 1 cm
                             Grand Total   =10 cm


Per Cut and Sewn allowance = 2 cm
Note: Pocket, Half moon, double layer bottom hem, and double layer sleeve s/b calculated on lengthwise.




2. Chest Allowance: This is sewing allowance in width wise of garment
a.     Side Seam = ½ Chest + 3cm
b.     Tube Seam= ½ Chest + 0 cm
c.      Per cut and sewn allowance= 2 cm


2. Consumption (Kg/ Doz)= Length in Meter X Width In M X GSM in Kg X 2 X 12 + Wastage Percentage

3. Neck Rib # 1x1/1x1 elastane rib circular

Neck Rib Consumption:

Height (Length) = Rib height or rib width or rib depth

Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance

Width = Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
            = Neck opening or neck width x 2 + 5 cm (V-shape)

Mathematical Calculation:


 















 




















Example:-
Pls calculate the consumption/doz on the basis of 180 GSM , S/J and neck rib gsm 230

For picture 01:


 Consumption (Kg/ Doz) =


 





= 2.76 kg/ doz

For picture 02:

 Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color A) =


 




=.86 kg/ doz

Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color B) =


 




=.63 kg/ doz

Consumption (Kg/ Doz For color B) =


 




=1.44 kg/ doz

Total consumption: 0.86+0.63+1.44 = 2.93 kg/ doz




Neck Rib Consumption:

Width = Neck width x 2 + 2 cm (Round)
            = 19X2+2 = 40 cm

Total Height= Rib Height X 2 + Allowance= 2X2 +2=6 cm

2. Consumption (Kg/ Doz)= Length in Meter X Width In M X GSM in Kg X 12 + Wastage
= .06 X .4X.230X12+18%
=.07 kg/ Doz

Note: Following point s/b considered during marketing cost:
1.       Fleece dia is not available.
2.       Y/D stripe wastage is huge.

Math:02

1.     Question: Fabric Length 100yds width 58 inch (Open) GSM 230, what is fabric weight?
Ans:
Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in Kg
                    W (Kg) = l x w x GSM
                                      = (100 Yds X36 X 2.54)/100 X (58 X 2.54)/100
                                                                                         X 230/1000
                                       = 91.44 x 1.4732 x .230
                                       = 30.99 kg


2.     Question: Fabric weight 50 kg, Fabric width 40 inch (tube) GSM 180. What is fabric length in meter?
Ans:
  Fabric weight in Kg = Length (Meter) X Width (Meter) X GSM in Kg
                           W (Kg) = l x w x GSM
                           50         = l x (40x 2.54x 2)/ 100 X 180/1000
                            L          = 136.70 meter
                                        = 136.70 x 1.0937 yds [ 1 meter = 1.0937 yds]
                                        =  149.50 yds






3.     Question: Fabric price 2.25 USD/ yds, Width 45 inch open, GSM 200,
Consumption 3.20 kg / doz, What is the garment fabric cost for per doz garments?

Ans:            W (kg) = L (M) X w (M) X GSM (kg)
            = L (M) X (45X2.54)/100 X 200/1000
L (M)= (3.20 X100X 1000) / (45X 2.54 X 200)
                                    = 13.99 (M)
                                    = 13.99 X 1.0937 yds
                                    = 15.30 yds
      Fabric cost (Per doz gmt)= Length X Unit price/ yds
                                             = 15.30 x 2.25
                                             = 34.56 USD / Doz


# Piping or Binding or Back Tape:
   Cons: Length in M x width in M x GSM in Kg x 12 + allowance (18%)
   Length: Neck width x 2 + 2 (R shape)
   Width: If width is 1 cm or any unit Pls multiply by 4
Wastage:
Distribution:

1.     Sewing wastage    = 3%
2.     Cutting and Finishing=2%
3.     Print Wastage=2-3%
4.     Emb. Wastage=2-3%
5.     Garment Wash wastage=5% above (Depends on wash type)
·        Garment Normal Wash=2-3%
·        Garment Enzyme Wash=3-5%
·        Garment Stone Wash= 5-10%
·        Garment Pigment dyeing & wash=10-20%
        

       Note: Wastage is variable depending on factory to factory.






FABRIC COST

1.     Yarn cost count wise
2.     Knitting charge
3.     Dyeing charge
4.     Special Finish (Like brush, peach, silicon softener, UV finish, Teflon finish, Easy care finish, anti bacterial finish)
5.     Process loss
6.     Commercial cost (Packing, Transportation, BBL)
7.     Profit margin
Detail :-
1. YARN :-

Relation between count and GSM:

  1. Single Jersey:
    1. 130-150à 30’s
    2. 160-170à 26’s
    3. 180-200à 24’s (210)
    4. 220-240à 20’s

  1. P.K./Lacost/1x1 Rib:
    1. 150-170à 34’s
    2. 180-200à 30’s
    3. 210-225à 26’s
    4. 230-250à 24’s
    5. 250-270à 20’s

  1. 2x1 Rib:
    1. 220-230à 30’s
    2. 240-250à 26’s
    3. 260-280à 24’s

  1. Interlock
                              24 G       22 G
    1. 40’sà  220         200
    2. 34’sà  250         230
    3. 30’sà  260         240
    4. 26’sà  275         260

  1. S/J with Lycra 5%:
    1. 150-160à 34’s
    2. 170-190à 30’s
    3. 200-210à 26’s
    4. 220-240à 24’s

  1. Fleece:
    1. 250à 20,30’s  (Ratio 20:80)
    2. 300à 10, 26’s (Ratio 30:70)

Req. F. GSM
Yarn  (Base cvc/tc + Loop Cotton)
Grey G.S.M.
From 30” (20GG)
290-300
30’s+10’s
221
73/74”
280
30’s+12’s
212
72/70”
260
34’s+12’s
198
66”
230-240
38’s+5’s or 40’s+10’s
179
64”
220
40’s+12’s
166
62”

Base  67.5%  &  Loop 32.5%



Yarn Price: Per Kg in USD
a.     P/C or Carded yarn price same
b.     CVC or Combed Yarn Price same
c.      5 cost need to add from20’s (as a standard count) for 4 count difference.
























2. KNITTING CHARGE:

TYPE OF FABRIC:- Per Kg in USD
Single Jersey - Solid dyed= $ 0.17

Single Jersey- with 5%-10% Elastane, Solid dyed= $0.63
Single Jersey- with 5%-10% Elastane, Y/D, Feeder stripe=$0.88

Single Jersey- with 5%-10% Elastane, Y/D, Eng stripe=$2.35

Single Jersey - Yarn dyed, Feeder stripe=$0.49

Single Jersey - Eng Stripe =$2.16

Single Jersey - Single Mercerized, Solid dyed=$0.18

Single Jersey - Double Mercerized- Solid dyed=$0.18

Single Jersey - Single Mercerized - Eng stripe=$2.18

Single Jersey - Double Mercerized - Eng stripe=$2.24

Pique - Solid dyed=$0.31

Pique - with 5% Elastane, Solid dyed=$0.69

Pique - Yarn dyed, Feeder Stripe=$0.59

Pique - with 5% Elastane, Yarn dyed, Feeder stripe=$0.69

Pique - Eng Stripe =$2.16

Pique - Single Mercerized, Solid dyed=$0.34

Pique - Double Mercerized - Eng stripe=$2.24

1X1 Rib - Solid dyed=$0.31

1X1 Rib/ 2X2 Rib - Yarn dyed, Feeder stripe =$0.69

1X1 Rib - with 5% Elastane, Solid dyed=$0.69

2X2 Rib - Solid dyed=$0.56

2X2 Rib - with 5% Elastane, Solid dyed=$0.88

Variable/ Placement Rib – Solid dyed=$0.74

Plain Interlock - Solid dyed=$0. 41

Plain Interlock - Yarn Dyed=$0. 47

Drop Needle Interlock - Solid dyed=$0. 46

Jacquard/ interlock(design) - Solid dyed=$0. 74

Jacquard/ interlock(design) - Single Mercerized=$0. 79

Jacquard/ interlock(design) - Double Mercerized=$0.81

Fleece Fabric (French Terry) - Solid dyed=$0. 56

Fleece Fabric With Brush - Solid dyed==$0. 56

Fleece with Elastane (5%) - Solid dyed=$0.69

Mini Waffle or Waffle - Solid dyed=$0.65

Mélange (Wash Only) Single Jersey=$0.16

Mélange (Wash Only) Pique=$0.30

Mélange (Wash Only) 1X1 Rib=$0.30





















1.      

# Collar & Cuff:

Weight per Collar: Finished length in cm x finished width in cm x .00008 (constant included wastage) =      kg/pc

Weight per Cuff or Placket: Finished length in cm x Finished width in cm x .00009 (constant included wastage) =       kg/Pc

(Specification 4 ply 24 s count based on)

Wastage: 4 %
2.     Checking shade in dyeing
3.     Rejection in knitting
4.     Others
During batch making
Tipping Thread: 4 ply 40 cm length 6 coarse = 65 m (Solid)per collar or
                                                                                            cuff or flat knit
                                                                         = 75 m (Tube) per collar or
                                                                                            cuff or flat knit
Total Tipping Thread:
     (No. of Ply x No. of coarse x length in cm x unit in meter x No. of garments ) / (4 x 40 x 6 x 4000) = Cone / pc

Note: 4000 is variable because different supplier supplies different meter /cone.

Total Yarn requirement: No of garments X wt of flat knit (1 Pc collar+2 pc cuff + if placket or others)

Example: 2000 Pcs garment, collar size 40x10 cm, cuff size 36x4 cm, placket size 2x22 cm. calculate the total yarn requirement?
Ans:
Wt of collar = 40 x 10 x .00008 = .032 kg/ pc
Wt of cuff = 36 x 4 x .00009 = .0129 kg/pc
Wt of placket = 2 x22x .00009 = .00396 kg /pc

Total yarn requirement = No. of Gmt X wt of flat knit (collar+ cuff+ placket)
                                      = 2000 X (.032 + .0129x2 + .00396)
                                      = 123.52 kg yarn

Example: 5000 pcs garment order collar size 50 X 10, cuff 36 x 4 cm and tipping collar and cuff 3 ply as per below,
8 coarse (per coarse = 0.5 mm) or 4 mm


 


                                                                


Ans:
Tipping Thread For color A:
Collar: (3 X 8 X 50 X 75 X 5000)/( 4X 6 X 40 X 4000)= 117 Cones
Cuff:    (3 X 8 X 36 X 75 X 5000)/( 4X 6 X 40 X 4000)= 84   Cones

Tipping Thread For Col B:
Collar: (3 X 8 X 50 X 65 X 5000)/( 4X 6 X 40 X 4000)=101 cones
Cuff:   (3 X 8 X 36 X 65 X 5000)/( 4X 6 X 40 X 4000)= 73  Cones


Dyeing Charge:



Dyeing

Solid
Y/D

Normal Fabric
Elastane Fabric




Normal
Dischargeable
Normal
Dischargeable
Normal
Single
mercerize
Double
Mercerize
RFD/ White
$0.30
$0.30
$0.33
$0.33
$0.46
$0.06
$0.74
Light
$0.61
$0.81
$0.67
$0.87
$0.52
$0.99
$1.15
Medium
$0.92
$1.12
$1.03
$1.23
$0.92
$1.18
$1.34
Deep
$1.09
$1.29
$1.24
$1.44
$1.34
$1.52
$1.70
Sulpher Black
$0.61
$0.81
$0.67
$0.87
$0.52
$0.99
$1.15
Royal Blue
R Black
$1.29
$1.49
$1.44
$1.64
$1.54
$1.72
$1.90








Note:
The above price is variable depends on factory to factory


Cotton

1.     RFD or white: 40 Tk
2.     Avg Color: 85 Tk
3.     R. Black Or R. Blue: 110 Tk


P/C or CVC

1.     White: 45 Tk
2.     Avg Color: 120 Tk
3.     Black or …: 130 Tk

Polyester:
1.     White: 25 Tk
2.     Avg Color: 60 tk
3.     Black: 70 Tk
Special Finish:
1.     Brush: $ .33 
2.     Peach: $.50
3.     Silicon softener: $.16
4.     UV finish: $.80
5.     Teflon finish: $.80
6.     Easy care finish: $.60
7.     Anti bacterial finish: $.60

Note: The above price is variable depends on factory to factory

Process loss:

1.     Solid Dyeing (Normal): 8-10%
2.     Solid Dyeing with Enzyme wash (Single): 10-12%
3.     Solid Dyeing with Enzyme wash: (Double): 12-15%
4.     Elastane fabric dyeing: 12-14%
5.     Yarn Dyeing (normal): 12-15%
6.     Yarn Dyeing (Mercerized): 15-18%
7.     Special finish: Add 5-10% more with above


Commercial cost:
1.     BTB L/C opening,Accepting for yarn
2.     Packing cost: 0.05 USD/ kg
3.     Transportation: .02 USD/ kg
4.     Profit Margin (Variable depending on factory to factory

Trims and Accessories


Introduction:


To full fill the design objectives we need different kind of materials. Fabrics are the main material, which used for garment manufacturing. We need other materials also, which make the garments aesthetic, functional and commercially required. Usually other than fabrics these material used for making garments are called trims and accessories.



Trims:
The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims.
On the other hand we can say that which materials are directly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads, buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc. (Interlining is used as shape forming / preserving materials.)


Accessories:
The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than fabrics and trims, are called Accessories.



List of Trims and accessories:

SL
Trims
SL
Accessories
1
Label (S)
1
Poly bag
2
Button
2
Elastic bag
3
Zipper
3
Mini Poly bag
4
Padding
4
Master Carton
5
Interlining
5
Inner carton
6
Down
6
Size clip
7
Elastic
7
P. P. band
8
Thread
8
Tag pin
9
Twill Tape
9
Brass pin
10
Stopper
10
Collar stand
11
String/ Draw Cord
11
Safety pin
12
Piping Cord
12
Gum tape
13
Emblem
13
Arrow sticker
14
Logo print
14
Scotch tape
15
D- Ring
15
Barcode Sticker
16
Swivel Hook
16
Defect indicator
17
Eyelet/ Grommet
17
Tissue paper
18
Collar Stay
18
Back board
19
Cord Bell
19
Neck board
20
Buckle
20
Butterfly
21
Rivet
21
Numbering stickers
22
Weaving belt
22
Hanger
23
Hook & Eye
23
Size sticker
24
Velcro tape
24
Carton pad
25
Seam sealing tape
25
Both side tape
26
Shoulder pad
26
Plastic staple
27
Cable (Steel ware)
27
Iron seal
28
Adjuster
28
Clip
29
Recco
29
Ball Chain
30
Elastic Threads
30
Size Tag
31
Shoulder Tape
31
Carton Sticker


32
Safety Sticker


33
Plastic clip


1.     Main Label: .15 - .30 USD/ Dzn
2.     Size Label: .05 - .08
3.     Wash care label:.05 - .10
4.     Polybag: .30 - .35
5.     Carton: .10 - .15
6.     Sewing Thread: .25 -.40
7.     Gum Tape: .10 - .15
8.     Flag Label


Print:
1.     Pigmant
2.     Rubber
3.     Plastic Salt
4.     High Density
5.     Suger Print
6.     Gel Print
7.     Glitter Print
8.     Discharge Print
9.     Reactive Print

Embroidery:
Per 12000 Stitch = .25-.28 USD (Normal)
                            = .30 - .35 USD (Appliqué)
Embroidery thread consumption Meter/ Body= Emb. stitch X .006
Price of Emb. Thread= 1.30 USD/ Cone Normal
Thread contain = 3000 meter/ cone or 2000 meter / cone


Wash:
1.     Normal: 1.50 USD/DZN
2.     Enzyme: 2.5 USD/DZN
3.     Pigment: 3 USD/kg
4.     Acid wash: 3 USD/kg
5.     Silicon Wash: 1.50 USD/DZN


CM:
1.     Tee Shirt: 3 USD/dzn
2.     Polo Shirt: 5-8 USD/dzn
3.     Tank Top: 1.5-2.5 USD/dzn

Sea Freight and Air Freight




Although most orders for garments are placed by buyers on FOB basis, with buyers to pay for freight at the shipping destination, it is still necessary for the shipper or the agent to know how to calculate sea freight and air freight as buyers always need to know how much freight the merchandise cost per dz. If you are required to sell on CIF basis, (with the shipper to prepay for freight at the shipping port) you will need to calculate the freight accurately for your own costing.

1.     Sea freight:
Sea freight is usually charged based on volume—how much per CBM (cubic meter)—very rarely by weight as “density cargo”. In fact ANERA (Asia North America eastbound rate agreement) has designed the freight tariff more based on the usual value of the type of goods, than the usual weight of them, taking into consideration that for low value merchandise they should give a low freight rate in order to make it possible for the importers to buy goods overseas. However, for high value merchandise, they should charge a high freight rate, as it is believed that the buyer can afford to pay more on freight. The have designed the freight tariff in such a way that everybody can do business and there is sufficient profit for the shipping lines.


Container size
Calculated Capacity
Practical capacity
Container FCL rate
FCL rate for CBM
LCL Rate per CBM
20” Capacity
29.5 CBM
27 CBM
3500
130
160
40” Normal
61.32 CBM
54 CBM
5000
92
160
40” Hi Cube
69.15 CBM
62 CBM
6500
92
160

Note: FCL: Full container Loading
         LCL: Loose container Loading

If you ship very heavy goods as loose cargo because the size of the shipment is very small, the shipping lines will charge you by weight or by volume whichever is higher.

1 CBM (100 cm X 100 cm X 100 cm) = 1000 Kg

2. Air freight:
Unlike sea freight, the airlines have decided to charge for the heavy merchandise (high density goods) by weight, and lightweight merchandise (low density goods) by volume. However, as airplanes can take less weight than ocean liners, the way they
Set the standard, in the garment industry, when you ship goods by air, you have a 70% chance to be charged by weight, about 30% chance by volume.

The followings are the relationship between weight and volume as set by IATA ( International air transport association).
a.     From most shipping locations in the Far east to the U.S. destinations and Canada 7000 cubic cm =  1 kilo.
b.     From certain locations in the Far east to the U.S. destinations and Canada 6000 cubic cm = 1 kilo

Therefore when you have low density goods to ship by air, in order to determine if you should try to make the cartons as small as possible to save freight. First you check with the local air forwarding agent by asking him in the country where you are, how many cubic cm is considered 1 kilo in weight. They will tell you either 7000 or 6000. This is the answer you need.

Then you physically check the weight and measurements of the good s packed for the air shipment. Now we have the 3 answers as follows, for example:
a.     The country is Bangladesh and the formula is 6000 cubic cm = 1 kilo
b.      The measurements of the cartons are 50cmX 60cmX 40cm
c.      The gross weight of the cartons are 16 kilo per carton.

Now let us find out if we should try to make the cartons smaller to save air freight by doing the following calculation,

     Multiply 5 by 60 by 40 = 120000 cubic cm.
     120000 cubic cm divided by 6000= 20 kilo

Now you know, by volume the one carton is of 2 kilo, but by actual weight the carton is of only 16 kilo. You also know the airline will charge whichever  is higher, in this case, they will charge you for 20 kilo, by volume. If the air freight rate is 2.80 per kilo this carton will cost you                    $ 56.00.

Now, in order to save some money, let us try to make the carton smaller, usually by cutting the height of the carton. Lets say we have succeeded in cutting down the height by 5 cm, and see how much money we can save.

** Original size of the carton: 50 X 60 X 35 cm (=20 kilo)

** Now cut down to 50 X60 X 35 cm= 105000 cubic cm.
     105000 / 6000 = 17.5 kilo

Now by using the new carton, we have saved 2.5 kilo and this carton will cost only $ 49.00 (17.5 Kilo X 2.80)