Prior to start inspection, quality checker must have approved standards
of the trims or style wise approved trim cards. Standards for the
properties are like – color, shade, measurement (width and length) and
hand feel. Standard sample must be signed by buyer or buying house
merchants or factory merchant.
Procedures of standard approvals:
Once factory received bulk of the trims, merchant collect trims from store and prepare trim card and sign on it after comparing trims against approved sample. If merchant do not have approval or does not sure about the item quality, she sent trims to buyer for bulk approval. Once merchant received approval from buyer they keep approvals ready for factory use.
Once factory received bulk of the trims, merchant collect trims from store and prepare trim card and sign on it after comparing trims against approved sample. If merchant do not have approval or does not sure about the item quality, she sent trims to buyer for bulk approval. Once merchant received approval from buyer they keep approvals ready for factory use.
Trims are normally being checked against standards on the following parameters. And parameters may vary one trim to another.
- Shade matching
- Shrinkage
- Color bleeding
- Width and thickness
- Strength
- Number and size
- Fiber content
- Text content/font/language in labels and tags
All the above parameters are generally checked using following procedures.
Shade matching: When we are talking about shade matching of trims
it is more important that trims color should match with base fabric
rather than color code or pantone card. Trims those are specified DTM
(dye to match) requirement is checked after attaching trims on the
fabric swatch. Check shade of the trims whether shade is matched or not.
Use color cabinet (light box) for checking shade. This test is always
required for shade matching of sewing threads, embroidery threads,
tapes, elastic and Dori.
Shrinkage: If shrinkage % of the trims varies from the fabric’s
(base material) shrinkage%, it will cause defective garment. Trims such
as tapes, laces must be tested for its shrinkage%. To check the
shrinkage, take some sample of trims (lace or tapes) of a length of
about 1.2 meters. Mark on its two ends keeping a gap in between marks of
exactly 1 meter. Dip one sample (the lace/ tape) in cold water for
about 12 hours. Take out tapes from water and flat dry. Measure the
length in between marks using same measurement tape/scale. Now calculate
shrinkage% in cold water. Secondly, shrinkage% is also checked after
washing trims in washing machine and tumble drying. The shrinkage found
in testing is compared against tolerance label and decided whether trims
will be accepted or not. When you are in confusion seek help for
authorized person (generally merchants). Formula for calculating
shrinkage percentage = (Length before wash – Length after wash)/Length
before wash X 100 (%).
Color bleeding: Dyed trims are checked for color bleeding. Buttons, sewing threads, dyed tapes and laces may be required for color bleeding test. In this test, trim samples (one by one) are washed with white fabric for a number of cycles as mentioned in testing methods (AATCC or ASTM). If the white fabric is got tainted with trims color then these trims should not be used in production. Prior to use, trims must be processed for color fixing to stabilize the color.
Color bleeding: Dyed trims are checked for color bleeding. Buttons, sewing threads, dyed tapes and laces may be required for color bleeding test. In this test, trim samples (one by one) are washed with white fabric for a number of cycles as mentioned in testing methods (AATCC or ASTM). If the white fabric is got tainted with trims color then these trims should not be used in production. Prior to use, trims must be processed for color fixing to stabilize the color.
Width & Thickness: Measure width of the trims such as tapes, elastics, laces etc. It would be good if you take measure after wash.
Size & Numbers: Thread numbers, button size, length of zippers etc. need to check against standards.
Text content/ fonts/language on labels and tags: Texts are
printed in the trims like hang tags, price tags, brand labels, case
labels. It is very important that all information is matched with
approved one. Fiber content printed in care label must match with test
report made for fiber content.
Report making: At the end of inspection prepare an inspection report on report card (formats). Your report card must have information such as i) what trims, ii) how many sample you tested, iii) comments if you found something that does not match with the standards. Finally write your assessment on trims inspection report whether trim is approved for production or not.