Apparel Testing
Importance of mechanical and physical properties of fabrics in the clothing manufacturing process1 has been the subject of many recent investigations in the apparel sector. Testing is essential to characterise the quality of fabrics and apparels. Performance standards cite the test procedures to be
used in testing those items. Testing may be done in-house or by an independent third party laboratory. But one must adhere to the effective test method for evaluation of the product. The interpretation of the test results will help identify conformance to the standard or otherwise. Fabric performance specifications for various properties and for various end items have been developed. It is true that the buyer and seller must mutually arrive at performance specifications for various properties of an item, i.e. apparel under consideration. Some reputed retail store chains have their own standard for various clothing items, and also the test methods to be used are indicated by them. In spite of all the test methods and availabletest data, the interpretation of test results, sometimes governed by a quality
decision, are driven by commercial cause.
The protocol in an apparel testing is a summary of requirements of performance, safety, quality and labelled claims. Different parameters are involved in sub-division of different test protocols. Merchandise category and fabric quality govern such type of characterisation. While some properties are common for different protocols, additional inputs are essential to properly designate the characteristics of apparel. The matrix of different protocols for apparels and accessories is discussed
here.
Protocols for apparel testing:
Label verification:
● Country of origin
● Fibre content
● Care labelling
● Registration (RN) number
● Size
● Copyright verification
● Stuffed articles label (Canada)
Identification tests:
● Fibre analysis
● Yarn size
● Fabric count
● Fabric weight
● Fabric construction
Wash-ability:
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance in laundering (includes self-staining, torque, skew, trim/seam durability, trim/garment compatibility, puckering, raspy hand,pill/fuzz, etc.)
Strength and performance tests:
● Tensile (woven)
● Tear (woven)
● Bursting (knit)
● Seam strength/stretchability
● Pocket strength
● Snap/zipper strength
● Stretch and recovery for elastic item
● Pilling
● Pile retention (corduroy)
Colourfastness tests:
● Laundering/drycleaning
● Chlorine bleach
● Non-chlorine bleach
● Crocking
● Light
● Perspiration (Lining or skin contact)
● Ozone and burnt gas fume (Indigo and white)
Other required tests:
● Flammability
● pH(washed items)
● Azo colourants (European requirement)
Additional test for technical outerwear/rainwear:
● Water repellency
● Water resistance
● Coating verification
● Breathability
Additional test for infant garment:
● Heavy metal/lead content on surface paints/coating
● Formaldehyde content
● Colour fastness to saliva (under 36 months)
● Children safety construction review (includes small parts, sharp object, drawstring, etc.)
Additional test for intimate and sleepwear:
● Flammability (children sleepwear)
● Yarn slippage
● Colour fastness to perspiration
● Stretch and recovery for elastic band
Additional test for sweaters:
● Garment weight
● Neck stretch
Additional test for swimwear:
● Colour fastness to seawater, water, chlorinated pool water
Additional test for down fill product:
● Air permeability
● Down proofness
● Down/feather labelling requirement
● Fill power
● Turbidity
● Oxygen number
Additional test for wrinkle resistant garment:
● Formaldehyde content
● Flex abrasion
● Durable press rating
Protocols for zippers, buttons and snaps testing
General properties:
● Heavy metals (painted surface)
● Lead content (all surface coating)
● Nickel leaching (skin contact only)
● Formaldehyde (zipper, button: children under 3 years)
Visual testing:
● Manufacturing qualities (zipper, snap)
Strength/durability properties:
● Appearance after laundering/drycleaning
● Zipper strength
● Button and snap strength
● Resistance to corrosion (metal only)
● Impact resistance (button)
● Centre strength (button)
● Ligne size (button)
● Thickness (button)Common testing protocols
Testing protocols which are common for woven, knitted, leather/suede and apparel-related accessories such as belts, caps, ear muffs, gloves, hats, neckties, scarves, headbands, etc. are given below:
Woven apparel:
(i) Woven natural cellulosic fabrics (50% or more) predominantly made out of cotton, linen, hemp, ramie, jute and blends;
(ii) Woven man-made cellulosic origin (50% or more) predominantly made out of Acetate, lyocell, modal, rayon (cuprammonium and viscose), rayon from bamboo (bamboo rayon), triacetate and blends;
(iii) Woven man-made synthetics (50% or more) predominantly made out of acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, aramid, olefin (polyethylene and polypropylene), polyester, spandex, vinal, vinyon and blends;
(iv) Denim
(v) Woven pile fabrics, i.e. corduroy, terry cloth, velvet, velveteen and other pile fabrics are given below:
● Fabric weight
● Thread count
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Skewing
● Tensile strength
● Tearing strength
● Seam strength (production seams)
● Stretch properties (Stretch direction only)
● Colour fastness
Knitted apparel:
● Fabric weight
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Skewing
● Bursting strength
● Colour fastness
Leather/suede apparel:
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Colour fastness
Apparel-related accessories such as belts, caps, ear muffs, gloves, hats, neckties, scarves, headbands, etc.:
● Fabric weight
● Thickness
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Seam strength (production seam)
● Colour fastness
one:
two:
five:
used in testing those items. Testing may be done in-house or by an independent third party laboratory. But one must adhere to the effective test method for evaluation of the product. The interpretation of the test results will help identify conformance to the standard or otherwise. Fabric performance specifications for various properties and for various end items have been developed. It is true that the buyer and seller must mutually arrive at performance specifications for various properties of an item, i.e. apparel under consideration. Some reputed retail store chains have their own standard for various clothing items, and also the test methods to be used are indicated by them. In spite of all the test methods and availabletest data, the interpretation of test results, sometimes governed by a quality
decision, are driven by commercial cause.
The protocol in an apparel testing is a summary of requirements of performance, safety, quality and labelled claims. Different parameters are involved in sub-division of different test protocols. Merchandise category and fabric quality govern such type of characterisation. While some properties are common for different protocols, additional inputs are essential to properly designate the characteristics of apparel. The matrix of different protocols for apparels and accessories is discussed
here.
Protocols for apparel testing:
Label verification:
● Country of origin
● Fibre content
● Care labelling
● Registration (RN) number
● Size
● Copyright verification
● Stuffed articles label (Canada)
Identification tests:
● Fibre analysis
● Yarn size
● Fabric count
● Fabric weight
● Fabric construction
Wash-ability:
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance in laundering (includes self-staining, torque, skew, trim/seam durability, trim/garment compatibility, puckering, raspy hand,pill/fuzz, etc.)
Strength and performance tests:
● Tensile (woven)
● Tear (woven)
● Bursting (knit)
● Seam strength/stretchability
● Pocket strength
● Snap/zipper strength
● Stretch and recovery for elastic item
● Pilling
● Pile retention (corduroy)
Colourfastness tests:
● Laundering/drycleaning
● Chlorine bleach
● Non-chlorine bleach
● Crocking
● Light
● Perspiration (Lining or skin contact)
● Ozone and burnt gas fume (Indigo and white)
Other required tests:
● Flammability
● pH(washed items)
● Azo colourants (European requirement)
Additional test for technical outerwear/rainwear:
● Water repellency
● Water resistance
● Coating verification
● Breathability
Additional test for infant garment:
● Heavy metal/lead content on surface paints/coating
● Formaldehyde content
● Colour fastness to saliva (under 36 months)
● Children safety construction review (includes small parts, sharp object, drawstring, etc.)
Additional test for intimate and sleepwear:
● Flammability (children sleepwear)
● Yarn slippage
● Colour fastness to perspiration
● Stretch and recovery for elastic band
Additional test for sweaters:
● Garment weight
● Neck stretch
Additional test for swimwear:
● Colour fastness to seawater, water, chlorinated pool water
Additional test for down fill product:
● Air permeability
● Down proofness
● Down/feather labelling requirement
● Fill power
● Turbidity
● Oxygen number
Additional test for wrinkle resistant garment:
● Formaldehyde content
● Flex abrasion
● Durable press rating
Protocols for zippers, buttons and snaps testing
General properties:
● Heavy metals (painted surface)
● Lead content (all surface coating)
● Nickel leaching (skin contact only)
● Formaldehyde (zipper, button: children under 3 years)
Visual testing:
● Manufacturing qualities (zipper, snap)
Strength/durability properties:
● Appearance after laundering/drycleaning
● Zipper strength
● Button and snap strength
● Resistance to corrosion (metal only)
● Impact resistance (button)
● Centre strength (button)
● Ligne size (button)
● Thickness (button)Common testing protocols
Testing protocols which are common for woven, knitted, leather/suede and apparel-related accessories such as belts, caps, ear muffs, gloves, hats, neckties, scarves, headbands, etc. are given below:
Woven apparel:
(i) Woven natural cellulosic fabrics (50% or more) predominantly made out of cotton, linen, hemp, ramie, jute and blends;
(ii) Woven man-made cellulosic origin (50% or more) predominantly made out of Acetate, lyocell, modal, rayon (cuprammonium and viscose), rayon from bamboo (bamboo rayon), triacetate and blends;
(iii) Woven man-made synthetics (50% or more) predominantly made out of acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, aramid, olefin (polyethylene and polypropylene), polyester, spandex, vinal, vinyon and blends;
(iv) Denim
(v) Woven pile fabrics, i.e. corduroy, terry cloth, velvet, velveteen and other pile fabrics are given below:
● Fabric weight
● Thread count
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Skewing
● Tensile strength
● Tearing strength
● Seam strength (production seams)
● Stretch properties (Stretch direction only)
● Colour fastness
Knitted apparel:
● Fabric weight
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Skewing
● Bursting strength
● Colour fastness
Leather/suede apparel:
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Colour fastness
Apparel-related accessories such as belts, caps, ear muffs, gloves, hats, neckties, scarves, headbands, etc.:
● Fabric weight
● Thickness
● Dimensional stability
● Appearance retention
● Seam strength (production seam)
● Colour fastness
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