Essential Elements of Quality Characterisation
Aesthetics in apparel are not desired to be sacrificed for durability and performance. But reverse is the case in various practical situations. Thus, when consumers buy apparels they suspect about the quality and expect some change in shape and colour after refurbishing. But the degree, to which this happens, entails the difference between satisfaction and disappointment. Prediction of such performance is only possible through comprehensive quality evaluation. Inherent properties of apparel are important to the consumer according to the application area. They may be highly specialised in nature, or otherwise normal and purely basic. But there is a core series of tests that are applicable to evaluate the product depending on the end use. There exist internationally recognised standards applicable in Europe and United States and broadly denoted as ISO, BS, EN, BS EN, DIN, ASTM, and AATCC. In addition, many other countries such as India, Australia, Japan, France and Canada regulate the quality evaluation through the standards. Even, some of the very reputed retailers
around the world have their own standards and test methods, e.g. Marks & Spencer, J.C. Penny, etc. Methodology and equipment may or may not vary but basic objectives remain the same, i.e. appropriate checking of quality to predict the performance of the merchandise and by which one
can determine the acceptance of the product or otherwise with reference to the expected minimum tolerance level.
Dimensional properties:
A common concern in apparel performance characterisation is the dimensional stability. Accelerated test methods4–5 are applied to wash and dry at the recommended conditions, and careful measurement of any changes in dimensions determines the product ability to withstand the ‘care
label’ recommendations. Side seam twisting or garment torque6 for knitted goods is the most common problem, which can be quantified by appropriatetest method. Controversy arises while marking and taking measurement.
Proper understanding of the test method, appropriate application and right interpretation of the test result are important to assure the desired characterisation.
Colour fastness properties
Apparel products fade due to various actions. It can be a particular problem with lower cost materials and processes, where insufficient care has been taken during dyeing, or sometimes because of the limitations of technology. In general, the tests measure the degree to which the colour changes when treated in a way that simulates the conditions of use such as washing7, drycleaning8, water9, perspiration10, rubbing11, chlorine and non-chlorine bleach12, chlorinated water13, light14, gas fume fading15, ozone fading16 and print durability. Many tests also measure the degree of colour transfer on uncoloured fibres in the same environment. Keeping in view of the application of various linings and varieties of different fibre panel in the same apparel, the use of fibre types as per standard, namely acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic and wool, is an essential part in certain tests to judge staining behaviours. Selection of an appropriate testing standard and adherence to its methodology are of paramount importance in arriving at a conclusion of the suitability of apparel intended for a specified end use. Conditions required for testing fashion apparel fading when exposed to light are being different with respect to testing the fading of upholstery in a car interior. These different end uses need to be accounted for during quality evaluation, even though the fading of either product under their normal conditions of use will cause a problem.
Durability and surface appearance
Durability of a garment is another important criterion to predict its permanence in use. Consumer often enquires this fact before final selection of the apparel product. It is basically the power of a garment to resist stress or force. Test procedure typically subjects the material to stress of some kind and measures the amount of force at which it fails. Most common tests measure tensile17, tear18 and bursting strength19. Deterioration of surface appearance due to abrasion and pilling are other areas wherein customer dissatisfaction is quite common. This can not be ignored since often garments develop unsightly ball of fibre, which are noticed to the surface of the fabric. Sometimes those are of a slightly different colour from the main fabric and can ruin the wearability of the article. Pilling tests provide the valuable guidance of the pilling performance of fabrics.
around the world have their own standards and test methods, e.g. Marks & Spencer, J.C. Penny, etc. Methodology and equipment may or may not vary but basic objectives remain the same, i.e. appropriate checking of quality to predict the performance of the merchandise and by which one
can determine the acceptance of the product or otherwise with reference to the expected minimum tolerance level.
Dimensional properties:
A common concern in apparel performance characterisation is the dimensional stability. Accelerated test methods4–5 are applied to wash and dry at the recommended conditions, and careful measurement of any changes in dimensions determines the product ability to withstand the ‘care
label’ recommendations. Side seam twisting or garment torque6 for knitted goods is the most common problem, which can be quantified by appropriatetest method. Controversy arises while marking and taking measurement.
Proper understanding of the test method, appropriate application and right interpretation of the test result are important to assure the desired characterisation.
Colour fastness properties
Apparel products fade due to various actions. It can be a particular problem with lower cost materials and processes, where insufficient care has been taken during dyeing, or sometimes because of the limitations of technology. In general, the tests measure the degree to which the colour changes when treated in a way that simulates the conditions of use such as washing7, drycleaning8, water9, perspiration10, rubbing11, chlorine and non-chlorine bleach12, chlorinated water13, light14, gas fume fading15, ozone fading16 and print durability. Many tests also measure the degree of colour transfer on uncoloured fibres in the same environment. Keeping in view of the application of various linings and varieties of different fibre panel in the same apparel, the use of fibre types as per standard, namely acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic and wool, is an essential part in certain tests to judge staining behaviours. Selection of an appropriate testing standard and adherence to its methodology are of paramount importance in arriving at a conclusion of the suitability of apparel intended for a specified end use. Conditions required for testing fashion apparel fading when exposed to light are being different with respect to testing the fading of upholstery in a car interior. These different end uses need to be accounted for during quality evaluation, even though the fading of either product under their normal conditions of use will cause a problem.
Durability and surface appearance
Durability of a garment is another important criterion to predict its permanence in use. Consumer often enquires this fact before final selection of the apparel product. It is basically the power of a garment to resist stress or force. Test procedure typically subjects the material to stress of some kind and measures the amount of force at which it fails. Most common tests measure tensile17, tear18 and bursting strength19. Deterioration of surface appearance due to abrasion and pilling are other areas wherein customer dissatisfaction is quite common. This can not be ignored since often garments develop unsightly ball of fibre, which are noticed to the surface of the fabric. Sometimes those are of a slightly different colour from the main fabric and can ruin the wearability of the article. Pilling tests provide the valuable guidance of the pilling performance of fabrics.
